Arizona Blonde (Aphonopelma chalcodes)

SHIPPING TERMS OF SERVICE

LAG (Live Animal Guarantee) is only available with Overnight shipping. Temps need to be between 30 and 90 degrees to qualify. Package must be accepted on first delivery attempt. For DOA's, you will need to contact me within 4 hours with a picture of said specimen. I may require you ship it back or take the picture in a special way, do not discard the specimen. I will always do my best to pack and ship. I will replace DOA's with another specimen of the same species, credit for the next purchase, or a refund.

Arizona Blonde

Aphonopelma chalcodes

New World, Terrestrial, Burrower

Habitat: Dry desert and scrubland

Geographic Range: Arizona, California, Mexico

Size: Females up to 5 inches Males somewhat smaller

Growth Rate: Females mature in 5+ years, males in about 2+ years

Temperament: Docile

Longevity: Females 30+ years, Males 5-10 Years

Temperature:  70-85 Degrees Fahrenheit

Humidity: 65-70%

Substrate: 4+ inches, this spider likes to burrow.

Defenses: All Spiders are venomous and will bite, tarantulas can also kick urticating hairs, however, this spider has mild venom

Food and Water: A shallow water dish should be provided, these spiders and good eaters they will tackle prey almost as big as they are.

BasicsHousing: All spiderlings are sold in an enclosure thatshould be suitable for at least a few months. Forspiderlings, it is important to restrict the available space tohelp ensure the spiderling finds its food, feelscomfortable, and has adequate humidity.Lighting: No additional lighting is necessary. Tarantulasare nocturnal.Heating: Warm room temperature between 70 and 75, butnot above 85.Feeding: Weekly. Crickets work best. Dubia roaches aretoo hard for slings and bury themselves; mealworms biteand are too fatty. For spiderlings, squash the cricket’shead so it can’t bite.Watering: Spray the enclosure down well weekly – dampbut no puddles. Watering also helps maintain adequatehumidity for successful molts.Molting: When a spider is lying on its back, it is not dead,it’s molting. If your spider is molting, leave it alone.Venom: All tarantulas are venomous, but no tarantula hasvenom that is dangerous to the average adult, unless youhave an allergy. Monitor all bites just in case.Urticating Hairs: New World Tarantulas have a patch ofspecial itchy hairs on their abdomens that they kick intothe air when threatened. They cannot aim or shoot them.The hairs float like dandelion fluff.Mites: Some species of mites can damage a tarantula.Keep your enclosure clean to prevent infestations. If yousee small inverts in the substrate, they are springtails.
More Information
New World vs. Old World: New World tarantulas are from North and
South America. Old World tarantulas are from everywhere else. New
World tarantulas are usually about as venomous as bees and have
urticating hairs on their abdomen, which may not be removable if they
become embedded in an eye. However, since they can’t aim them, they
are easy to avoid by keeping the tarantula away from your face. Old
World tarantulas are more venomous than wasps and more likely to bite.
However, their venom only makes an average adult achy and sick for two
to ten days, depending on the species. Take care with all spider bites and
monitor for allergic reactions, which can be unexpected and dangerous.
Adult Housing: There are three main sizes of tarantula, dwarves (under 4
inches), average sized (usually 5 to 6.5 inches), and bird eaters (8 inches
or over). Tarantulas are measured like TVs, from their right upper leg to
their left lower leg. An adult dwarf tarantula needs at least a two gallon
tank, an average sized tarantula needs at least a five gallon low, and a bird
eater needs a fifteen to twenty long. Most arboreal species are average
sized, but need a tank that is vertically oriented, like an ExoTerra nano
tall, as an adult. Any adult can have a larger enclosure: do not put a
spiderling in an adult sized enclosure - they tend to get lost and either
starve or dry up. How much substrate depends on the type of spider, but
generally giving all terrestrial tarantulas substrate at least a few inches
deep will allow them to behave more naturally, while the substrate in an
arboreal enclosure is more about maintaining humidity.
Substrate: We use a mix that is about 70 percent cocofiber and 30
percent peat moss. The mixture maintains humidity and turns a reddish
color when it is too dry. We also seed our substrate with springtails,
which are a type of tiny insect that eat waste products, such as left over
cricket bits and tarantula poop. This is to help prevent infestation of
dangerous mites. Finally, we include sphagnum moss instead of water
bowls in our enclosures because it is naturally antibacterial and antifungal
and tarantulas don’t quite seem to understand bowls.
Other Notes: Most tarantulas are solitary. Don’t keep them together
unless the species is a special exception. Most adult tarantulas don’t need
the high humidity that spiderlings need to be successful, but there are
exceptions to that rule as well. When in doubt, research the species of
tarantula you have.